We are escaping south to Bamburgh in Northumberland, for a short break.
Children and luggage safely stowed in our car, we head off down the A1.
The sun's appearance from behind the clouds signals an optimistic start to our holiday as Eve (six) and Hope (three) babble excitedly in the back seat. The girls are content with a quick game of I-Spy before the inevitable "are we there yets" kick in.
We take a break from the journey at Chain Bridge Honey Farm, four miles south of Berwick upon Tweed. A delicious lunch in the cafe on the top floor of one of the farm's double-decker buses is an unexpected treat.
Revived, we then observe a colony of bees, safely from behind glass. The farm's bees forage the hills of north Northumberland and the Scottish Borders to create the most delicious and succulent honey.
Eve adored the chewy honeycomb, while my partner Graham had to get his fix of grainy honey mustard, delicious smeared over just about anything. To stretch our legs we sauntered back over the River Tweed to the Scottish border, crossing via the wobbly Victorian chain bridge and scoffing Doddington Dairy's very tasty Heather Honeycomb ice-cream as we went.
Hope's tub took a tumble and landed on the bridge, but we made it back to the car without tears.
We soon arrived at Dukesfield, a collection of five converted farm steadings one and a half miles from Bamburgh. Dairy Cottage, our base for the duration, offers spacious self-catering accommodation for up to six people. And with our friend Alison and her daughter Stella (three) joining us, it was an ideal home from home for us all.
The bright interiors are all clean lines with modern colours, apparently influenced by stylish city pads, so more New York than Northumberland. The properties are owned by Simon Mallinson, a Glasgow-based commercial TV producer. He has ensured all hi-tech gizmos are on hand and an enormous HDTV dominates the living room, no doubt vital for rainy weather and football fixtures.
I am normally against wi-fi – I see it as an excuse not to take a break from work – but on this occasion, it was great for checking weather reports.
I am normally against wi-fi – I see it as an excuse not to take a break from work – but on this occasion, it was great for checking weather reports.
There were loads of games and buckets and spades on hand for the children and there is a fabulous wood-burning stove to cheer up even the bleakest day, making this a five-star self-catering treat.
Via their parent company, Grace Darling Holidays, the cottages offer extra luxuries that include personal chefs and even a feast of Lindisfarne oysters and champagne on the battlements of the castle. We opted for a lighthouse adventure later in the week.
Via their parent company, Grace Darling Holidays, the cottages offer extra luxuries that include personal chefs and even a feast of Lindisfarne oysters and champagne on the battlements of the castle. We opted for a lighthouse adventure later in the week.
That evening Graham scarpered off to the beach with the gals while I mooched around the house waiting for Alison.
Be warned, mobile reception can be a bit tricky. But as we settled in for the night we instantly felt at home. A breakfast of pork sausages and dry-cure bacon, courtesy of Bamburgh's award-winning butcher, Carter's, set us up for our first day.
The weather was appalling so we headed off to Alnwick Castle, hoping that the rain would prove to be a shower. The castle is a real hit with children as it has a fantastic "Knights' School" where small people can amuse themselves for hours. Even the torrential rain couldn't dampen our spirits.
Be warned, mobile reception can be a bit tricky. But as we settled in for the night we instantly felt at home. A breakfast of pork sausages and dry-cure bacon, courtesy of Bamburgh's award-winning butcher, Carter's, set us up for our first day.
The weather was appalling so we headed off to Alnwick Castle, hoping that the rain would prove to be a shower. The castle is a real hit with children as it has a fantastic "Knights' School" where small people can amuse themselves for hours. Even the torrential rain couldn't dampen our spirits.
As we hunkered down back at Dairy Cottage as the storms and rain did their worst, we weren't hopeful for the lighthouse tour the next day. However, dawn brought fair skies and we decided to risk the boat journey from Seahouses to the Longstone lighthouse.
We powered over a relatively calm sea to Longstone island aboard the MV Golden Gate, spotting puffins, seals, shags and gannets on the way. I can't recommend this outing enough – it was the highlight of our stay.
The Longstone lighthouse, with its constant 20-second wink, was home to the family of Grace Darling when the SS Forfarshire ran aground on 15 June, 1896.
Plucky Grace earned her place in history when she and her father rowed half a mile out to sea to rescue the 13 survivors. Some of our party were not quite tall enough to ascend the stairs to the lamp room, due to a height restriction, but those who did were rewarded with stunning views. Hope delighted in racing a round the helipad shouting "H is for Hope".
Plucky Grace earned her place in history when she and her father rowed half a mile out to sea to rescue the 13 survivors. Some of our party were not quite tall enough to ascend the stairs to the lamp room, due to a height restriction, but those who did were rewarded with stunning views. Hope delighted in racing a round the helipad shouting "H is for Hope".
I vaguely remember being taught about Grace Darling at school, but looking out of her bedroom window somehow brought her brave actions to life.
It was amazing to think of the entire Darling family living on this isolated rock 12ft above sea level, four and a half miles out to sea. As the girls scampered excitedly back aboard the boat, it occurred to me that it would have been a scene familiar to the Darlings.
It was amazing to think of the entire Darling family living on this isolated rock 12ft above sea level, four and a half miles out to sea. As the girls scampered excitedly back aboard the boat, it occurred to me that it would have been a scene familiar to the Darlings.
Having had to endure my fair share of mindnumbing tours in the past, it was a genuine pleasure to hear from the knowledgeable local guides. Tired out from all the sea air, Hope was carried ashore sound asleep.
Later that day we headed to nearby Low Newton by the Sea for a spot of lunch at the Ship Inn. Its stripped-down interior of exposed stone walls and wooden floors with a hotchpotch of furniture might have looked basic, but the kitchen came up trumps with a feast of a lunch.
A delicious ploughman's platter featuring Doddington's unpasteurised cheese and locally produced Turnbull's ham, home-made chutneys and well-dressed salad was duly scoffed along with soup and sumptuous fishcakes.
Even the cheese toasties were well above average. The Ship also produces its own ales, Sandcastles at Dawn and Dolly Day Dream, from its microbrewery on site.
A delicious ploughman's platter featuring Doddington's unpasteurised cheese and locally produced Turnbull's ham, home-made chutneys and well-dressed salad was duly scoffed along with soup and sumptuous fishcakes.
Even the cheese toasties were well above average. The Ship also produces its own ales, Sandcastles at Dawn and Dolly Day Dream, from its microbrewery on site.
For entertainment, a couple of local bands blasted out cover tunes from a makeshift stage outside this quirky but busy pub.
The groovers and lunchtime diners soaked up the sun and atmosphere outside on the village green during this mini-festival.
A pleasant afternoon of scampering on the beach dodging showers and eating ice-creams exhausted everyone.
The groovers and lunchtime diners soaked up the sun and atmosphere outside on the village green during this mini-festival.
A pleasant afternoon of scampering on the beach dodging showers and eating ice-creams exhausted everyone.
Our last day had dawned so we went to the recently refurbished RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh to find out more about the heroic actions of this star attraction. She was a modest character, uneasy with her fame, who died from tuberculosis in her uncle's house in Bamburgh, aged 26, a local girl through and through.
We returned to Alnwick but this time we went to the gardens. The children were desperate to see the fountains, and the toy tractors were a great hit with Hope, while Eve and Stella were mesmerised by the water features.
As a garden fan, I was slightly disappointed – it was early August, and the borders in the walled garden were all but finished. That said, we have visited Alnwick before, in May, and were delighted by the colourful spring planting and especially enjoyed the tulips.
We returned to Alnwick but this time we went to the gardens. The children were desperate to see the fountains, and the toy tractors were a great hit with Hope, while Eve and Stella were mesmerised by the water features.
As a garden fan, I was slightly disappointed – it was early August, and the borders in the walled garden were all but finished. That said, we have visited Alnwick before, in May, and were delighted by the colourful spring planting and especially enjoyed the tulips.
We have promised ourselves we'll be back to this part of the world, as our holiday had family appeal and value in bucket and spadefuls.
Dairy Cottage is available to rent via Grace Darling Holidays
This article first appeared in Scotland on Sunday 13/12/2008
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