This article first appeared in Scotsman magazine 02/04/2011
Life is about the journey, not the destination," so said Ralph Waldo Emerson, so I don't know who is more excited by the prospect of the Eurostar to Paris, Graham and I or the girls. Our noses are pressed up against the window to make the most of the views, whilst the girls are very industriously scribbling away at their magazines and colouring in books. We are going to a quiet corner of Normandy, travelling via Paris and onto Le Mans by train, in part due to an effort to reduce our carbon footprint, and show the girls different modes of transport. Ultimately Pays du Perche is where we are headed, one of the five departments of Orne, a region of Normandy. It is very rural, very French and it is packed full of historical wonders. We plan to totally immerse ourselves in the place, staying first at a gîte on an organic
farm and then finishing with a few days in a tree house. We manage to negotiate our way to the tiny village of Belloule-Trichard without incident, and then meet up with Dominique at the farm, La Haute Blatrie, that she runs with her husband Patrice. They have refurbished nearby farm buildings into two delightful holiday homes. This extremely hard working couple have done most of the graft themselves, even making the lime render that covers the walls at La Lorandière, where we are staying. It is normally the haunt of Parisians, in search of a weekend away. The interior features wooden beams which have been here for centuries and tiled floors throughout. It is decorated in a basic traditional French style, so there's no separate kitchen and few mod cons. Instead, an ornate sideboard divides the living space and stores the crockery, while a
Belfast sink adds country cottage charm. A tasty bowl of cherries on the table were plucked from the tree in the lane. Later as I watch my family, I'm sure we are in paradise. A caterpillar munches on a fennel plant, soon to flutter off as a swallowtail butterfly. The gals, barefoot, tiptoe over the gravel cobbles and the air is rich with the heady scents of a balmy summer's evening. Birdsong provides the soundtrack to good wine and homemade food which has been cooked with love. Dominique has left us with salad from her garden and a delectable flan which we all scoff. Eve and Hope babble contently at their separate entrance to the gîte, complete with rustic stable door. Antique wrought iron bedsteads contribute to a dream interior that could grace the pages of Elle Decoration. "Our house is brilliant, our house is lovely," the girls chant in unison. It is harvest time on the organic farm and the fields are bursting with a bumper yield. Ripe barley heads rattle in the whispering breeze. As we walk back to the farm at milking time to get some fresh milk direct from the dairy, we pause en route to chat to the horses in the field. Our first outing is to Mamers and an outdoor bathing lake or plans d'eau. Set in parkland, I half expect to find an Impressionist painter sketching away in the poplar-lined boulevard, capturing French families relaxing plein air. Despite an unseasonal downpour, Eve loved the experience of swimming outdoors so much that most of our holiday involved a quick cooling dip wherever we went. For provisions, we stocked up in the nearby town of La Ferté-Bernard, a traditional place complete with flag-draped Hôtel de Ville and a quirky one-way system. You can hire electric boats to explore the small canal system, and we spent a hilarious afternoon mucking about on the river. Another fairly local jaunt is to the Ecomusée du Perche, at Saint-Cyr-laRosière. At the priory, still used as a religious retreat, you will find a museum of farming which is a hub for courses in traditional skills and crafts. The verdant courtyard garden gave us loads of inspiration for our garden back home. What could be more French than a market? We caught up with it at Nogent le Rotrou, but it travels to different towns in the area every day. There are lots of gorgeous things to try before you buy, including olives and fresh produce, and it's a real foodie heaven, but you will have to try to speak French. We all make promises to learn the language, so we can be less useless next time. We have already discovered we want to come back. You must search out the picturesque village of La Perrière hidden deep in the ancient forest of Bellême. The organic bakers you will find there make the most delicious bread in wood-fired ovens every Thursday and Sunday. All the loaves are made from historic varieties of grains grown on site at their market garden. We arrived late but were delighted to discover that locals pitch up at the last minute too. The highlight of the holiday was a day trip to the headquarters of the regional parc naturel, Maison du Parc near Courboyer. It is a rural estate set in 160 acres of spectacular countryside, which is managed in a traditional way and the focus for sustainable development in the area. A shop showcases local producers and craftspeople. The restaurant serves traditional food and a beautiful 15th-century manor house is open to view. Make sure you take time out to watch the damsel and dragonflies hover effortlessly above the pond, before taking a stroll around the gardens or amble along one of the waymarked nature walks. If total immersion into French life is not your bag, and you fancy a bit of the high life, stay at English speaking Claire Stickland's tree house. Saunter through a swathe of wildflower meadow, and you will discover this luxury tree lodge. Crafted from red cedar and pine it is completely hidden in the leafy canopy of a 200-year-old sweet chestnut tree with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. The main room has a living area with a desk for writing and a great supply of books and games. There is a massive king sized bed, yet somehow room to fit a petite kitchen in the corner. It is packed with everything you might need to cater for yourselves. Downstairs is the second bedroom complete with bunk beds, and the girls really felt they were hanging out in the branches. There is even space for a separate shower room, and cedarwood shower wash makes for a decadent touch. The tree is alive with the sound of bees, busying themselves with collecting pollen and nectar. The pipe cleaner flowers drop on the decking, and Eve took great delight in brushing them off, like a pirate swabbing the deck. The hammock at the foot of the tree was a great hit with the girls, whilst Graham and I enjoyed gazing at the views over the countryside, glass in hand, recharging our batteries. As the sun set, we discussed the importance of spending money to support independent businesses, and vow to be a bit more ethical on our return. The best bit, for us, was the sumptuous breakfast delivered in wicker baskets each morning containing a selection of the very best organic produce including hot chocolate, coffee, bread from La Perrière and a selection of jams, honey, and yoghurt. The fresh pear and apple juice are made by local producers whom you can visit. Perhaps the Eurostar has discovered time travel, as this holiday was like a half-remembered dream of my own childhood holidays. Strange how life recycles itself. Sadly our holiday has come to an end, but hopefully, memories of it will stay with the girls forever.
THE FACTS B&B at La Lorandière (tel: 0033 233 832 598,)
Perche dans la Perche (tel: 0033 233 255 796, www.perchedansleperche.com)
information on the area visit www.normandy-travel.co.uk
farm and then finishing with a few days in a tree house. We manage to negotiate our way to the tiny village of Belloule-Trichard without incident, and then meet up with Dominique at the farm, La Haute Blatrie, that she runs with her husband Patrice. They have refurbished nearby farm buildings into two delightful holiday homes. This extremely hard working couple have done most of the graft themselves, even making the lime render that covers the walls at La Lorandière, where we are staying. It is normally the haunt of Parisians, in search of a weekend away. The interior features wooden beams which have been here for centuries and tiled floors throughout. It is decorated in a basic traditional French style, so there's no separate kitchen and few mod cons. Instead, an ornate sideboard divides the living space and stores the crockery, while a
Belfast sink adds country cottage charm. A tasty bowl of cherries on the table were plucked from the tree in the lane. Later as I watch my family, I'm sure we are in paradise. A caterpillar munches on a fennel plant, soon to flutter off as a swallowtail butterfly. The gals, barefoot, tiptoe over the gravel cobbles and the air is rich with the heady scents of a balmy summer's evening. Birdsong provides the soundtrack to good wine and homemade food which has been cooked with love. Dominique has left us with salad from her garden and a delectable flan which we all scoff. Eve and Hope babble contently at their separate entrance to the gîte, complete with rustic stable door. Antique wrought iron bedsteads contribute to a dream interior that could grace the pages of Elle Decoration. "Our house is brilliant, our house is lovely," the girls chant in unison. It is harvest time on the organic farm and the fields are bursting with a bumper yield. Ripe barley heads rattle in the whispering breeze. As we walk back to the farm at milking time to get some fresh milk direct from the dairy, we pause en route to chat to the horses in the field. Our first outing is to Mamers and an outdoor bathing lake or plans d'eau. Set in parkland, I half expect to find an Impressionist painter sketching away in the poplar-lined boulevard, capturing French families relaxing plein air. Despite an unseasonal downpour, Eve loved the experience of swimming outdoors so much that most of our holiday involved a quick cooling dip wherever we went. For provisions, we stocked up in the nearby town of La Ferté-Bernard, a traditional place complete with flag-draped Hôtel de Ville and a quirky one-way system. You can hire electric boats to explore the small canal system, and we spent a hilarious afternoon mucking about on the river. Another fairly local jaunt is to the Ecomusée du Perche, at Saint-Cyr-laRosière. At the priory, still used as a religious retreat, you will find a museum of farming which is a hub for courses in traditional skills and crafts. The verdant courtyard garden gave us loads of inspiration for our garden back home. What could be more French than a market? We caught up with it at Nogent le Rotrou, but it travels to different towns in the area every day. There are lots of gorgeous things to try before you buy, including olives and fresh produce, and it's a real foodie heaven, but you will have to try to speak French. We all make promises to learn the language, so we can be less useless next time. We have already discovered we want to come back. You must search out the picturesque village of La Perrière hidden deep in the ancient forest of Bellême. The organic bakers you will find there make the most delicious bread in wood-fired ovens every Thursday and Sunday. All the loaves are made from historic varieties of grains grown on site at their market garden. We arrived late but were delighted to discover that locals pitch up at the last minute too. The highlight of the holiday was a day trip to the headquarters of the regional parc naturel, Maison du Parc near Courboyer. It is a rural estate set in 160 acres of spectacular countryside, which is managed in a traditional way and the focus for sustainable development in the area. A shop showcases local producers and craftspeople. The restaurant serves traditional food and a beautiful 15th-century manor house is open to view. Make sure you take time out to watch the damsel and dragonflies hover effortlessly above the pond, before taking a stroll around the gardens or amble along one of the waymarked nature walks. If total immersion into French life is not your bag, and you fancy a bit of the high life, stay at English speaking Claire Stickland's tree house. Saunter through a swathe of wildflower meadow, and you will discover this luxury tree lodge. Crafted from red cedar and pine it is completely hidden in the leafy canopy of a 200-year-old sweet chestnut tree with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. The main room has a living area with a desk for writing and a great supply of books and games. There is a massive king sized bed, yet somehow room to fit a petite kitchen in the corner. It is packed with everything you might need to cater for yourselves. Downstairs is the second bedroom complete with bunk beds, and the girls really felt they were hanging out in the branches. There is even space for a separate shower room, and cedarwood shower wash makes for a decadent touch. The tree is alive with the sound of bees, busying themselves with collecting pollen and nectar. The pipe cleaner flowers drop on the decking, and Eve took great delight in brushing them off, like a pirate swabbing the deck. The hammock at the foot of the tree was a great hit with the girls, whilst Graham and I enjoyed gazing at the views over the countryside, glass in hand, recharging our batteries. As the sun set, we discussed the importance of spending money to support independent businesses, and vow to be a bit more ethical on our return. The best bit, for us, was the sumptuous breakfast delivered in wicker baskets each morning containing a selection of the very best organic produce including hot chocolate, coffee, bread from La Perrière and a selection of jams, honey, and yoghurt. The fresh pear and apple juice are made by local producers whom you can visit. Perhaps the Eurostar has discovered time travel, as this holiday was like a half-remembered dream of my own childhood holidays. Strange how life recycles itself. Sadly our holiday has come to an end, but hopefully, memories of it will stay with the girls forever.
THE FACTS B&B at La Lorandière (tel: 0033 233 832 598,)
Perche dans la Perche (tel: 0033 233 255 796, www.perchedansleperche.com)
information on the area visit www.normandy-travel.co.uk
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